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"There’s something about the smell of burnt caramel that just screams fall to me."

"Maybe it’s because, for me, Yerushalmi kugel is wrapped up in memories of Sukkot and Simchas Torah—of growing up in Crown Heights, on the block of 770, the epicenter of Chabad, when thousands of people would come from all over to spend the holidays by the Rebbe. My mother would cook a feast, and the table would be overflowing with turkeys, stuffed chickens, rice, salads, cakes, and kugels. Lots and lots of kugels."

"So I invited my mother over recently to make her Yerushalmi kugel with me, and I thought, why don’t we turn this into a series? if anyone deserves her own kugel series, it’s my mother. Her potato kugel is legendary in our family, but that’s just the beginning. There’s broccoli kugel, sweet lokshen kugel, salt-and-pepper lokshen kugel, sweet potato kugel, apple kugel—and I’m pretty sure she has a few more hiding up her sleeve."

"But back to the kugel at hand: Yerushalmi. My father OBM, who grew up in Bnei Brak, taught my mom to make it, and she mastered it! Unliked the baked versions, this kugel is fried on the stovetop, for extra crispiness. The secret to this kugel is in the almost burnt caramel, and every time I’ve ever tried to make it, I burnt it! The smell of the caramelized sugar hitting the noodles immediately takes me back to my childhood in the best possible way. It’s Sukkos on a plate."

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